Living in a culinary mecca like Sonoma is great and all, but sometimes you just want a plate of hash that’s not covered in edible flowers and dehydrated sumac.
Local restaurateurs Beronica Peres and Carlos Rubio get it. Their recently opened Verano Cafe sits quietly wedged between an auto repair shop and McDonald’s along Highway 12 in the unincorporated town of El Verano. It’s not a spot most people would give a second glance. And that’s not necessarily a bad thing.
The Verano Cafe menu was designed with Sonoma residents in mind. An “if you know, you know” sort of place mostly discovered by word of mouth.
“My husband and I were thinking that in Sonoma, there is no breakfast place,” said Beronica Peres, who manages the casual breakfast, brunch and lunch restaurant in the former Animo space with Rubio.
While there are certainly a handful of breakfast restaurants in Sonoma — including the Sunflower Caffe, Basque Boulangerie, El Huerto, Valley Bar & Bottle and others — the point isn’t lost on locals who have long lamented not having heartier diner-style fare that caters to a broad swath of local tastes.
The extensive list of choices includes everything from pancakes and fried chicken with Belgian waffles to chilaquiles, burgers and a croque-monsieur. It’s as diverse as the population of Sonoma County.
What sets Verano Cafe apart from standard diner fare, however, is a dedication to using locally sourced ingredients.
More than just lip service, Peres rattles off products and vendors, including bread from Basque Boulangerie and tortillas from nearby El Molino Central. She’s proud of the fact that corned beef for the hash is made in-house, along with pastrami for their Reuben, tangy rémoulade for the fish and chips and lush Hollandaise sauce blanketing their lineup of Benedicts.
“Our menu is very Sonoma-style,” Peres said. They get the local ethos of farm-to-table dining without being overly precious with their food.
As veterans of the local restaurant scene, Peres and Rubio know what locals like to eat. They also own Jacob’s restaurant on Broadway, focusing on Italian pasta, pizzas and risotto — another off-the-beaten-path local favorite.
The couple were also part-owners of Maya Restaurant and La Hacienda, and have well-oiled front-of-house experience. You’ll get that as soon as you walk in and are greeted warmly. Peres has hired several tried-and-true cooks from Jacob’s to run the large, open kitchen, and watching them hustle to put out dozens of plates at a time is impressive.
There are less than 10 tables inside, but the space feels airy and comfortable with homey wooden tables and chairs that make it feel lived in. Outside tables with broad umbrellas are highly coveted. Service is reliably friendly, and the wait times aren’t excessive, even on crowded weekends. Grab a fresh mimosa (passion fruit is a favorite) or a well-made cup of coffee while you wait.
As the front door swishes open and closed with orders headed for the patio, it is clear that Peres and Rubio have hit upon a winning combination of well-made food that doesn’t need silly frills to attract a grateful local audience.
Tourists are welcome at Verano Cafe. However, in a county with plentiful upscale dining options, this Sonoma secret seems like a respite from gourmet acrobatics and sky-high prices.
Best bets
Corned Beef Hash, $21: Made in-house, this corned beef is crisp and flavorful, topped with a poached egg and microgreens (a little unnecessary, but they add some tasty greens). Potatoes, onions and Cheddar cheese round out the mix, along with a heavy dose of green peppers. Once you spear the egg, the soft yolk coats the whole mess deliciously. Easily the best dish on the menu.
Lemon Pancake, $12: Plate-size pancakes are fluffed up with cottage cheese, eggs and lemon for a unique take on the traditional stack.
Boarder Benedict, $18: Chorizo is the surprise guest on the traditional eggs Benedict with slices of avocado and creamy Hollandaise. Served with seasoned potatoes.
Lemon Crepes, $11: Neatly folded crepes are filled with rich lemon mascarpone and berries, topped with a strawberry drizzle. The generous portion is not overly sweet, though we would have liked more lemon zing.
Reuben, $17: Buttery sourdough toast is a departure from the usual rye. Housemade pastrami, sauerkraut and actual Gruyere (rather than the usual Swiss swap-out) makes the sandwich. A side of rémoulade sauce is a must for dipping crusts and fries.
18976 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma, 707-931-6837, veranocafesonoma.com. Open from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday. Seating is first-come, first-served.