Paolo Pedrinazzi feeds a simple ball of dough through metal rollers in the front of his open kitchen over and over until a sheet of nearly translucent pasta stretches several feet between his arms.
It’s gossamer light and threatens to tear if you look at it the wrong way, but somehow, the Italian native gently carries the fresh lasagna sheets to the back, where they’ll be cut and piled between a Bolognese ragu and béchamel sauce. Not your mama’s lasagna.
Pedrinazzi and his wife, Kat Escamilla, are the pasta whisperers of Portico Italian Social Food restaurant in Sebastopol. The homey cafe has all the charm of Nana’s kitchen as Escamilla scurries between tables, dropping plates of cacio e pepe, risotto and fresh pappardelle pasta with saffron cream to customers. And, of course, the 12-layer lasagna.
“It’s part of our mission to perpetuate things being done by hand. It’s great for people to see that, and that’s why we cook in an open kitchen,” Escamilla said. Pasta is made throughout the dinner service, so there’s a good chance you’ll see Pedrinazzi in action.
Portico is one of Sonoma County’s hidden gems, well-known to locals but usually overlooked by visitors in its cozy corner of Main Street. Pedrinazzi isn’t a Michelin-starred chef but a passionate cook who brings recipes from his family in Bologna, Italy — the culinary mecca of a country known for incredible food — to Sebastopol.
Growing up, Pedrinazzi made fresh pasta at his father’s bakery in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, best known for its rich, egg-based pasta, Parmigiano-Reggiano, prosciutto and mortadella — closely related to bologna (or baloney) in the U.S.
“He’s a home cook, but Paolo knows his region’s cuisine like the back of his hand,” said Escamilla, who brings her experience as a longtime caterer to the husband-and-wife team.
One of her superpowers, however, is sharing the history and culture behind iconic Italian dishes like Bolognese sauce — called Ragu alla Bolognese in Italy.
A trained anthropologist and former teacher, Escamilla riffs on the sauce, explaining its ancient history as a cozy gravy that included beef, pork, onions and a soffrito of carrots, celery, bell pepper and tomatoes. Most recipes include milk and cream, but Portico’s version is milk-free. Escamilla thinks it’s outdated and unnecessary due to richer meats used in modern Bolognese.
“And we include more vegetables in ours because Paolo’s grandmother made it that way. It’s homey and very nutritious with all those vegetables,” she said. And unlike other tomato-based sauces, Bolognese isn’t bright red, but a duller brown with strained tomatoes as a background note, she added.
The pasta also differs entirely from American-style dried pasta, made with wheat and water. Pedrinazzi adds eggs to his pasta for a richer flavor, which is common in Bologna.
“We like to keep in line with tradition,” Escamilla said.
Their traditions also include the social aspect of Italian meals, which are enjoyed slowly and with friends. For four years before opening the restaurant, the couple threw Italian dinner parties with friends, something Escamilla equates with the longtime customers attending monthly regional dinners at the restaurant and trips to Italy with the couple.
“In this age of AI, human connection is so important, and there’s such a tight connection between culture and cuisine,” she said.
Best bets
Vegetarian Antipasti, $18: Though it sounds a bit ho-hum, you’ll find an ever-changing selection of roasted peppers, tomatoes with rosemary and mozzarella, and the crave-worthy artichoke dip.
Ragu Bolognese with Tagliatelle, $20: The praises have been sung. Thick strands of homemade pasta hold onto the chunks of carrots and green pepper, with ground beef and pork taking center stage. Portions are reasonable — neither too much nor too little.
Lasagna Bolognese, $20: Crepe-thin layers of pasta with ragu, béchamel sauce and Parmesan cheese. Also available in a vegetarian version.
Pappardelle Pasta with Saffron Cream, $24: Extra-wide strips of fresh pasta bathed in golden saffron cream are exactly as good as they sound.
Tiramisu, $8: A hefty slice of this espresso-soaked dessert made with mascarpone rather than whipped cream. The sweetness is toned down, making it a calorie-worthy dessert without the sugar shock.
Many dishes are available for takeout. Order online at porticosocialfood.com. Portico is open from 4 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and offers indoor and patio options. Regional dinner parties are held on the first Wednesday of the month. 100 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-888-9136.
